Friday, December 6, 2013

America 2013: Day Eleven - December 2 | Chicago Willis Tower Amtrak California Zephyr



It’s a high school prom, it’s a Springsteen song, it’s a ride in a Chevrolet. It’s a man on the moon and fireflies in June, and kids sellin’ lemonade. It’s cities and farms, it’s open arms, one nation under god. It’s America.
- Rodney Atkins

This entry comes from the outer reaches of Burlington, Iowa. We’ve been on Amtrak’s California Zephyr for nearly six hours, and are now crossing our second state, having left Illinois a few minutes ago. We’ve also crossed the mighty Mississippi River and are tracking ever westward, bound, sometime tonight, for Lincoln, Nebraska and on into Colorado by the morning. We are just about on schedule, even after a longer-than-expected stop at Galesburg, Illinois where Trev and I were the last folks back onto the train.

Leaving Chicago wasn’t easy. We got to see Brian one more time when he dropped Lauryn and her suitcase around to our hotel this morning. If nothing else, it was another chance to thank him for such wonderful hospitality over the last week. He suggested last night that we come back during the warmer months next time, maybe over the Memorial Day weekend in May or Independence Day in July. That may be the go next time.

After dropping our car back to O’Hare International Airport, we took a Blue Line train back to downtown Chicago – about 45 minutes – and walked two blocks south from the Metra station to Union Station, which actually looks more like a museum than a train station. It’s an ultra-impressive building, a holdover from the old days when train travel was the only mode of transport if you wanted to get somewhere in this vast country. 

The good thing about having sleeper accommodation is access to the Metropolitan Lounge with it’s free WiFi and luggage storage. We checked our big suitcases in – they’re travelling in the hold beneath us – and left our carry-on stuff in a luggage room so we could walk a couple blocks across the Chicago River to Willis Tower and the SkyDeck. 

Chicago’s most famous building also happens to be the world’s tallest, rising a mammoth 103 storeys over the middle of the cityscape, and is better known as Sears Tower. There’s nothing quite like walking out of the elevators and over to the floor-to-ceiling windows, peering down to street level to watch locals go about their business. 

Chicago from the Willis Tower SkyDeck

As impressive as the incredible architectural attention to detail on every building and tracing the path of the Chicago River, is Lake Michigan, a giant body of whose waters come right to the edge of the city. One of the famed Great Lakes, Michigan is the only one lying entirely within United States territory. It’s big enough that it that touches five states: Illinois, Wisconsin, Indiana, Michigan and Minnesota. Really, it looks more like the coastline of a country than a mere lake.

The coolest feature of the SkyDeck is a recent addition: architects added four boxes of clear glass which jut out from the tower’s superstructure. There’s literally nothing between you and a fall of 103 storeys but a few inches of – thankfully, very solid – glass. I’m not scared of heights, per se, but it was a little nerve-wracking just because you’re so high up and the city below is so enormous. We got a professional photo taken there, and bought it as a souvenir of our touring crew.

After fitting in some souvenir shopping and a quick lunch, we went back to Union Station in time for boarding. We’re in what is called a Superliner Roomette, which is basically two large seats facing each other with a table in the middle and a long window. It’s a little close, but we’re dealing with it pretty well. Lucky Lauryn and I are family. The good thing is, we’re on the upper deck of this huge train so we should get good views through the Rocky Mountains west of the Mile High City, Denver, Colorado, tomorrow morning. 
 

The toilet, just next door, is interesting. Not only do we get the added bonus of hearing a lot of the activity that goes on there when our glass door isn’t pulled shut, but it’s hard to activate the lock that stops other people from barging in whilst we’re in the middle of…yeah, I’m sure you get the idea. A magnet for unusual – remember the onion ring burns? – Lauryn managed to get pushed in through the open door when the train rocked, and the door closed neatly behind her.

At night, the two seats pull forward into one bed, and a second comes down from the roof. Lauryn’s going to try her luck up top tonight, but I could well be up there tomorrow night if she doesn’t go so well. Nathan and Trevor are two rooms down on the other side of the train. Also on this train is a domed sightseeing car, a full service dining car – and the food is pretty good, considering we’re on a fast-moving train – and a lounge car, as well as a number of carriages of people sitting up, like on an aeroplane. That’s a long haul if you’re going 51 hours out to California like we are – about 4 times as long as the flight from Sydney to Los Angeles.

The route we’re on – Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Nevada and California – is one of the oldest in America, and one of the most picturesque. Aside from the plains of Illinois, Iowa and Nebraska, we’ll see the Colorado Rockies, the Salt Flats of Utah, the Nevada desert, the Sierra Nevada mountains and, finally, the San Francisco Bay Area on the run into Emeryville, which is a suburb of Oakland. We’re really covering some miles on this journey!



They’re calling our dinner reservation. Gotta go eat!

Monday, December 2, 2013

America 2013: Day Ten - December 1 | Chicago Winnetka Home Alone Portillos Outback Steakhouse



He's got the red, white, and blue flyin' high on the farm, Semper Fi tattooed on his left arm. Spend a little more in the store for a tag in the back that says ‘USA’. He won't buy nothin' that he can't fix with WD40 and a Craftsman wrench. He ain't prejudiced; he's just made in America.

- Toby Keith

People ask me often why I keep going back to America. They make the valid point that I’ve seen a lot of what the country has to offer – though I still haven’t seen some places I’d like to, such as Nashville, Texas and some other places in the deep south – but they don’t understand so much that it’s not the country but the people in in which makes me want to keep coming back.

Some of the best people I know in America reside in Chicago and tonight was our last night before we get on a train and head west to continue our trip. It’s never easy to leave here, but I think it actually gets harder every time. The Thanksgiving weekend has been amazing. I don’t know that I’ve had a better string of days in my life – at least not in recent memory. Everything’s been perfect, from the weather to the company. It’s crazy to think that if we hadn’t met Jamie through my cousin, we wouldn’t have just enjoyed one of the best weeks hanging out in the Chicago suburbs.

We ended it on a high at Outback Steakhouse, which is a really bad impersonation (by Americans, mind you) of what Australia is meant to be like. There were sixteen of us in total: four Aussies and fourteen Americans. Needless to say, it’s way off the mark, but the food and the beer is good. We ended up drinking tall glasses of Fosters to go with our meals, mostly steak and chicken. The food was okay, the dodgy Australian atmosphere not that great, but the company tremendous. Aside from Thanksgiving, definitely the best night of the trip so far.

Kevin, Matt, me, Mike

To start the day, we took a drive out to Winnetka, Illinois, a very upmarket and beautiful Chicago suburb, which is famous for being the location where the fantastic Home Alone films (at least, the first two starring Macaulay Calkin) were filmed. We had an interesting experience trying to find a public restroom, and had to make ‘other arrangements’ when we couldn’t. The less said about that moment, the better!

The Home Alone House

Just before lunch, we drove into Chicago and did some shopping at Sports Authority, a seven-storey mega store selling all sorts of sporting apparel. Their Nike collection is insanely cheap, a hundred dollars or more cheaper than what we’d get in Australia. They also stock just about every single sort of item you could want featuring one of the major sports franchises in this city: the Bears, Blackhawks, Cubs, Bulls and White Sox. We don’t have a place that matches it back at home.

Shopped out, we met Jamie and Will at Portillos, a famous eatery in the downtown area with pulled pork, Chicago-style sausages and a heap of other good food. Portillos is a real institution in this city. A lot of people who’ve been away for a long time go straight down to Portillos (there are some suburban locations, too) and enjoy a good meal, Windy City-style. Lauryn managed to burn herself on the chin by eating an onion ring incorrectly. I know, it’s quite something…

The afternoon was for sightseeing. We managed to get to a few of Chicago’s biggest tourist attractions including Millennium Park, Cloud Gate (better, and colloquially, known as The Bean), the Chicago Art Institute and a German Christmas Market in the middle of downtown. We ended the afternoon walking along the Chicago River back to our car as the sun went down over the cityscape.



It’s bittersweet writing this blog because we leave behind great people in the morning, and will board Amtrak’s California Zephyr for a 51-hour – unless there’s delays – trip west through Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Nevada and into Oakland/San Francisco in northern California. I love Chicago. It’s one of my favourite cities in the world. I love all my friends who live here. They’re some of the best people in the world. 

At The Bean


I know I’ll be back.

Until then, Chicago…

Sunday, December 1, 2013

America 2013: Day Nine - November 30 | Michigan Ohio State Football #GoBlue



Hail! to the victors valiant Hail! to the conqu'ring heroes. Hail! Hail! to Michigan, the leaders and best! Hail! to the victors valiant. Hail! to the conqu'ring heroes. Hail! Hail! to Michigan, the champions of the West!
- Michigan Fight Song

Put it like this, we had some issues with the condition of our room at the Super 8 in Kalamazoo that we discovered – actually, Lauryn did – after I wrote yesterday’s blog. The less I say the better, but understand that if we hadn’t been staying there literally for only a few hours en route north to Ann Arbor, I’d have had a few things to say about the hotel. As it was, we got enough sleep and were on our way, joining a heap of other cars decked out in Michigan colours for the 90-minute drive north to the stadium.

There isn’t much Midwesterners love more than college football in the fall, and there aren’t many bigger games in this part of the country than the annual collision between hated rivals, the University of Michigan Wolverines and the Ohio State University Buckeyes. Their game today was the 110th meeting in their storied rivalry, which is appointment viewing around the country. We were lucky enough to be in Michigan Stadium – The Big House – amongst 113,000 other people to see what ESPN has called the greatest rivalry in college sport.

Everything about Michigan Stadium is big. The crowd, the scoreboards, the marching bands, queues for food, the level of hatred towards Ohio State – it makes a Collingwood vs. Carlton game seem like nothing in comparison to this rivalry – and the passion of every single fan who packs into the stadium. Today was the 250th consecutive game where Michigan Stadium has held a crowd of more than 100,000 people. Consider that they have 6-7 home games a season, and you can see how far back they’ve been packing people into the stadium on Main Street.

Michigan vs. Ohio State

The only thing that isn’t big is the space between ‘seats’ on the benches in the venue, which are far less comfortable than the proper seats I’m used to at pro sports. Sitting down, you’re pretty much jammed in like sardines. Like Trev said, you wouldn’t want to be claustrophobic! It’s a little tight, especially with everyone rugged up in multiple layers against the cold. Not that it mattered too much: we stood for just about every play of the game.

Everyone stands at Michigan football, and they make all sorts of noise to try and put the Ohio State offense off. There’s singing and chanting and booing and cheering. You pick up the “Go Blue!” chants pretty quickly, and as the game’s momentum swung back and forth, it was very hard for even novices in the crowd (like two of my three travel buddies) to not get carried away in the moment.

Michigan Cheerleaders


In the long and storied rivalry of this series, the 2013 edition of the game, which ended with an unpopular 42-41 Ohio State victory, will be remembered as one of the classics. There were big plays, controversy, points, tremendous individual efforts on both sides and a brawl in the first half that saw three players ejected, two from Ohio State and one from Michigan.
 
The game really was a gripping contest- one of many being played around America on another big day, actually. Better, the weather was perfect. We wore many layers and were actually hot in the warm sun, despite the thermometer hovering around 2 Celsius. All things considered, Lauryn and Trev could not have seen a more thrilling contest for their first ever live game of American football. There’s nothing like being in such a big and passionate crowd when such an important game – the most important of the season for both teams – is on the line. It’s louder than the MCG has ever been.

Massive Crowd

The trip back from Michigan was about 4 hours, including a dinner stop at Battle Creek, Michigan, home to Kellogg’s. We dropped Lauryn off to the Alley’s and came home to watch the last few games of football. Big day tomorrow: sightseeing in the city with Jamie and Will before 16 of us head down to Outback Steakhouse – where else? – for our Chicago farewell. Should be a good, if emotional day.

America 2013: Day Eight - November 29 | Buffalo Wild Wings Wheaton Kalamazoo



Took a look down a westbound road, right away I made my choice. Headed out to my big two-wheeler, I was tired of my own voice. Took a bead on the northern plains, and just rolled that power on.
- Bob Seger

It’s hard to believe that this is only the end of the first week of our trip. It seems much longer than that, in a good way. We’ve seen so much and covered so many miles. The trip has been awesome so far, and is only going to get better over the next three weeks.

Black Friday is like Boxing Day in Australia – it’s the day when every man and his dog ventures to the shops to spend big. They call it Black Friday because shops tend to get back into the black as a result of the business they do today. I saw a humour picture on the internet this morning that said: Because, only in America, people trample others for sales exactly one day after being thankful for what they already have!

I’ve seen Chicago downtown on Black Friday once before, three years ago, and I’m not at all disappointed that we didn’t head down there today. Instead, whilst Jamie, Lauryn and Debbie did their shopping thing, we slept in late – I wasn’t up until after 10am – after a big day of eating and drinking on Thanksgiving and went down to Buffalo Wild Wings to watch football, eat wings, drink beer and hang out with some of the cool Americans we’ve met on previous trips. Again, it’s humbling that when we come back into town, even on a holiday weekend, so many people want to move their schedules about to fit in a few hours to hang with us.

Aside from being a big shopping day, Black Friday is crazy with football. This is Rivalry Weekend in college ball, and between today and tomorrow a bunch of big rivalries, some between in-state schools (Washington vs. Washington State, Ole Miss vs. Mississippi for example) will play for trophies and bragging rights. These are the sorts of rivalries that make college football so great. 

To take in as much action as we could, we went to Buffalo Wild Wings with Mike, Matt, Brian and another really cool guy, Kevin Donahue. B-Dubs, as it’s known colloquially, is a big bar with about 40 different screens showing every single game of football, basketball and hockey (and some gold) taking place across the country.



Later in the day we picked up Lauryn and drove from Chicago through Indiana and into Michigan, to the town of Kalamazoo.  We’re staying here overnight at a Super 8 motel and in the early morning driving 90 minutes to Ann Arbor, the town where the campus of the University of Michigan is located.  Kalamazoo is also a college town, home to Western Michigan University, though their program is dwarfed by the one in Ann Arbor. 

We’re in Michigan because, tomorrow at high noon, at Michigan Stadium in Ann Arbor, the greatest college football rivalry, the Ohio State University Buckeyes vs. the University of Michigan Wolverines will be renewed for the 109th time in a storied history that dates back to October of 1897. Michigan Stadium is known as The Big House and holds in excess of 100,000. It will be off the chain tomorrow.

It’s gonna be loud and cold – and I can’t wait!