Wednesday, December 11, 2013

America 2013: Day Eighteen - December 9 | Northstar California Lake Tahoe



In the day we sweat it out in the streets of a runaway American dream. At night we ride through mansions of glory in suicide machines. Sprung from cages out on Highway 9, chrome wheeled, fuel injected and steppin’ out over the line. Baby, this town rips the bones from your back. It’s a death trap, it's a suicide rap. We gotta get out while were young, `cause tramps like us, baby we were Born to Run.
- Bruce Springsteen

The cable channel FX showed Armageddon last night, which interfered with my plan to have eight solid hours of sleep before the alarm went off at 5.30am this morning. But when Bruce Willis is drilling to the core of an asteroid to save humanity, bravely sacrificing himself in the process, you can’t help but watch, right?

So it was more like six hours of sleep, and after an early breakfast we departed Stockton, heading towards Lake Tahoe, via Sacramento (the state capital of California) and up over Donner Pass, back into the Sierra Nevada Mountains – the opposite side to where we were in Yosemite – and Northstar California, one of the handful of world-class ski resorts that dot either the north or south shore of Lake Tahoe.

I have fond memories of Northstar. It’s the first Tahoe resort I ever skied at, almost three years ago to the day. On that occasion, we came through a wintry mix of snow and sleet atop Donner Pass and down into the sunny environs of Lake Tahoe. Today, there was no such weather interruption. The skies were clear from sunrise, which we enjoyed from the highway – a low yellow-orange ball of searing heat – and didn’t change all day. In fact, the weather’s meant to be clear and sunny as long as we’re here in Tahoe. 

Northstar Village at sunset

We’re doing extraordinarily well on the weather front so far this trip. The only day we’ve seen rain was the first day at Knott’s Berry Farm, and that didn’t hinder us too much. The only thing I should comment on here is the cold. It was bitter today. On the drive in, coming through Truckee, California, we actually hit -3F. That’s approaching -20C and is just about a low temp as far as what we’ve seen on the trip so far. Thankfully, it warmed up before we hit the slopes, getting to about 17F (still well below freezing) and the sun helped. I bought a balaclava for $20 at a store in the Northstar Village. A very, very solid purchase!

After today, my memories of Northstar are even better. It’s not an exaggeration to say that we had perfect skiing conditions today: fresh snow, blue sky, sunshine, not a breath of wind, some groomed runs, some moguls, tree skiing, fast lifts and, perhaps best of all, very few other people to share the mountain with. Today was as good as skiing gets…and the forecast calls for something similar today and tomorrow.



Runs here are awesome. The best one we skied on – a diamond run called Burnout – was wide and steep and fast and so much fun. You ski for a mile from top to bottom, always with an incredible view of the surrounding mountains. It’s epically beautiful. We were on the north side today, so our glimpses of Lake Tahoe were fleeting, but tomorrow, at Heavenly, we’ll get much better views, because we'll actually be skiing towards it on most runs.

Burnout at Northstar. One mile, top to bottom

After a solid day’s skiing and a hot chocolate to warm us back up, we drove an hour around the lake to Heavenly Village, which sits astride the Nevada-California border. Thanks to a friend, we are staying in beautiful accommodation at the Marriott Timber lodge. We have two villas sitting opposite each other. Each one has a master bedroom with a spa bath, a full kitchen, washer/dryer, a stone fireplace, two televisions, a huge bathroom (bigger than some full hotel rooms I’ve stayed in!) and a dining room table. It’s really, really nice. A far cry from the Red Roof Inn in Stockton, where we stayed last night.

Cold but sunny. The balaclava was a wise purchase!
 

Taking advantage of the accommodation given to us for a very cheap rate, we ordered pizza for dinner from a local place called Blue Dog. It was really good – especially their ‘Hair of the Dog’ which is jalapenos, red pepper, green pepper, pepperoni and mozzarella cheese. Beer, pizza, some football and some of my favourite people in the world…a perfect end to a great day.

More skiing tomorrow! This time, we’ll be at Heavenly.

Well-earned lunchtime beer by the fire!

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