Thursday, December 12, 2013

America 2013: Day Nineteen - December 10 | Heavenly Mountain Lake Tahoe



Ventura Highway in the sunshine, where the days are longer, the nights are stronger than moonshine. You're gonna go I know, ‘cause the free wind is blowin' through your hair, and the days surround your daylight there. Seasons crying no despair, alligator lizards in the air, in the air.

- America

Perception is an interesting thing. We had an amazing day today, waking up to snow and blue skies and no wind. Lauryn and I skied and skied and skied, thinking, deciding that the cover was about as good as we’ve ever seen, the sort that you rarely see back at home. Then, we were on a chairlift with some folks and we got to talking about where we were from. They commiserated with us that we didn’t arrive and get a little more snow.

Heavenly Village and the Gondola trail up the hill

It’s funny, because I was thinking that I probably wouldn’t see snow this good again for a long time, and our lift companions were wishing it was better. Us Aussies thought it was awesome, and the locals are waiting for mid-season conditions. 

Lake Tahoe from the Heavenly Gondola

It was a magical day today, warmer than yesterday, which was very much welcome, and with the same bluebird sky weather. As good as Northstar was yesterday, Heavenly is even better because most of the runs are facing the lake. You get off the lifts – all express quads or six-seaters – and ski down towards Lake Tahoe, an immense body of water at it’s magical best today, glassy and so clear that you can see the reflection of the towering mountains.

Snow...and frozen desert

Heavenly Village, where we are staying, is a 30-minute gondola ride away from the base of the lifts on the Nevada side – there are two bases, California and Nevada – and what a ride it is! About a minute out of the bottom station, Lake Tahoe peaks out from behind the fir trees and the higher you get, the more of the lake you see. When it’s clear and sunny, visibility is unlimited, right across the lake towards Northstar and Squaw Valley. We were treated to stunning conditions yesterday. The views make the ride go past quickly.



Because it’s early season, there were only a handful of lifts open, but it didn’t matter. There were very few people around and the runs are wonderfully long, drifting down through the trees, with views of the lake on one side and the California desert on the other. I don’t know that there is a more picturesque place to ski in all of America than Heavenly.


I also have to note the quality of the food at North American resorts as compared to Australia. I noticed the same up in Canada when we were at Whistler and Grouse Mountain a few years ago. Food is appealing and tasty, and reasonably priced. I had a bowl of smokehouse chilli, loaded with Spanish onion, jalapeños and sour cream. Nathan’s pulled pork sandwich looked awesome, too. I had a beer with lunch. It was perfect weather for that!



Four o’clock came quickly, and we headed back down the gondola, a few minutes ahead of Nathan, who was finishing up a lesson. Those of us who skied were pretty stuffed by the end, so we ordered pizza in and spent the night drinking beer and watching movies. It was a very relaxing way to end a great day!

Good news was announced last night: Heavenly will be opening up 5 more runs and a new quad express tomorrow, the Stagecoach Express. That means we’ll be able to ski top-to-bottom on the Nevada side of the mountain. That’s more than two miles through the trees! Can’t wait!

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